Malta!

January 27, 2018January 27, 2018 / Robin Busalacchi / 2 Comments

Where and why — two questions we’ve constantly been asked about Malta.

Malta is a small European republic south of Sicily. The archipelago sits smack in the middle of the Mediterranean Sea, which made it a strategic hot spot in history (I’ll go into that in a later post).

Why are we here? Malta is a popular destination for expats and is often referred to as one of the best places in the world to retire. The lures: English speaking, low cost-of-living (comparatively), national healthcare, low crime rate, 299 average days of sunshine.

We wondered what it would be like to LIVE here. And that is just what we’ve been doing. Every day is a lesson in Maltese culture. We learn about the Maltese people through our everyday interactions – with the bus drivers, with the shop clerks and waiters, with the barber, with the people sitting next to us in the cafes. We learn about the food by seeing what’s available in the local grocery stores and at specialty stands, as well as when we dine at local restaurants. We learn about religion by visiting churches and attending Sunday Mass. We’ve even learned to navigate a small corner of the healthcare system when Frank goes for his monthly blood tests at the hospital.

Our apartment is a classroom. We learn about the European practice of limiting electricity consumption via the on-off switches on the outlets, the outdoor clothes line (no dryer), and the individual room-heating units. We are acutely aware of water conservation as we manipulate the flat’s sensitive rooftop water pump. Frank is all over the garbage and recycling routines. We purposely rented an apartment close to the national swimming complex so he could swim. That hasn’t worked out so well because the pool is outdoors. January and February temperatures average around 60, with even cooler mornings. Can you say pneumonia? So we do a lot of walking and a lot of exploring various sights and neighborhoods.

Some friends asked if we thought we’d get bored spending an entire month here. Good question when you consider Malta’s size. The country is just 17 miles long and 9 miles wide with a population of 432,000. But no, we haven’t gotten bored. The country has a rich history with much to see and do. We look forward to sharing more of marvelous Malta!

: Malta

: Our neighborhood

: Our apartment

: Two bedroom large apartment

: Our balcony runs the length of our house and around the front.

: View from our balcony

: Many houses are named rather than numbered, although that is changing. Names make it hard for taxi drivers as you can imagine.

: Malta is famous for the timber balconies (Gallarija) that extend out from their homes.

: Development is quite dense from town to town. Many buildings are being renovated and as population increases on the tiny island, there is no where to go but up . . .

: Floors are added above existing buildings.

: We’ve been watching this construction from our balcony, shocked that no one wears hard hats or harnesses.

: Our grocery store (second floor of this building) has most of what we need.

: Convenience stores, butcher shops and fruit stands are everywhere.

: You will find many pastizzi stands. A pastizz (plural pastizzi) is a traditional savoury pastry from Malta. Pastizzi usually have a filling either of ricotta or mushy peas.

: Pastizzi are quick, cheap eats.

: Our church in the town of Msida.

: We’ve found the buses to be clean and efficient. Because the island is so small, you can pretty much go anywhere on them. Valletta is ten minutes away by bus.

: But mainly we walk. Our apartment is just a few blocks from the water.

: There are so many boats!

: They range in size from row boats to bigger sail boats to . . .

: huge yachts.

The most interesting man in . . .

January 28, 2018 / Robin Busalacchi / 4 Comments

. . . the world? Well, maybe a man with the most interests in the world(!). Frank and I met Charlie on our Maltese Rural Tour. It was such an interesting day!

: I’ve mentioned that Malta is tiny — just 17 miles long by 9 miles wide. Thus, farmland is limited. Farmers usually live in a nearby town and commute to their land.

: Plots of land are divided by these hand-crafted stone walls.

: Farmers often own scattered parcels.

: For Christmas, Nick and Maddie treated us to an Olive Oil Tour. It was a wonderful chance for us to get outside the city to explore the rural side of Malta. Christian from Merill Tours picked us up at our apartment.

: We found that this fairly small farm had much more than just olive trees.

: Pomegranates and carob trees. The dark brown pea pod of the carob tree is a sweet and healthy substitute for chocolate.

: Gotta love January daffodils!

: And January cherry blossoms!

: Fragrant herbs were everywhere.

: Christian introduced us to Charlie, the landowner. We learned that many Maltese have multiple jobs. In addition to his tour company, Christian is a musician and organizes events. Charlie is no different. In addition to raising all the different trees and plants on their farm, Charlie’s main passion is his work as a diver . . .

: and he is also a beekeeper . . .

: and he raises poultry.

: Charlie also just started raising snails!

: Another passion is splicing different plants together to create new plants!

: He learned how to do this by watching YouTube!

: Charlie’s wife Bella had a nice lunch waiting for us after our walk. We tasted their olive oil (delicious!), as well as some other local products.

: We enjoyed taking part in a tour that promotes conservation of the environment and empowerment of rural communities, especially land owners like Charlie and Bella. And it was fun to meet some new friends!

Who didn’t/doesn’t want to live in Malta?

February 8, 2018February 8, 2018 / Robin Busalacchi / 6 Comments

First, a short history lesson to give you the big picture: Throughout its history, Malta has been occupied by a who’s who of world superpowers. The timeline starts around 5200 BC with the first wave of prehistoric settlers. Successive waves of conquerers — the Phoenicians, Carthaginians, Romans, Normans, Arabs, Aragons — all took possession of the small islands due to their strategic location.

The Knights of St. John arrived in Malta in 1530 and they played a key role during the Middle Ages, particularly with the Great Siege of 1565 (interesting battle, read about it here: https://www.visitmalta.com/en/great-siege-1565) and through 1798 when the French took control. The British beat back the French a year later and Malta became a British Crown Colony in 1814. Malta strongly supported the UK through both World Wars and remained in the Commonwealth until its independence in 1964. A decade later Malta declared itself a Republic and, in 2004, became a member of the European Union.

Evidence of each occupation is visible in this living museum of a country. From the ancient to the modern, Malta is a beautiful and fascinating place. We’ve spent a month here and have come to understand why it is “under siege” by its current invader — tourists and expats looking for a great place to live.

❤️ Malta

: The country of Malta is an archipelago. We took a road trip, taking our car across in the ferry, to Gozo. Gozo is the second largest island of Malta with a population of 37,000 and a square area of 26 miles.

: The Megalithic Ġgantija Temples are the oldest free-standing stone structures in the world, older than Stonehenge and the pyramids of Egypt.

: The Ġgantija Temples, Gozo

: The iconic Azure Window was Malta’s most popular sight. Unfortunately, erosion caused it to collapse into the sea 11 months before our arrival.

: It remains a beautiful area to visit.

: The island of Gozo is dotted with pretty beach towns like Xlendi.

: Xlendi and its patron saint of the sea, St. Andrew

: Ta’ Pinu Church, also known as the National Shrine of the Blessed Virgin

: The church has some beautiful mosaics but is better known for . . .

: . . . countless letters and memorabilia from people thanking Mary for miracles received.

: All roads in Gozo lead to Rabat, also known as Victoria. The Citadel is visible from almost everywhere on the island.

: Prisoners were often sent from the island of Malta to Gozo’s prison inside the Citadel.

: Old time “graffiti” on the prison walls

: One of the many scenic vistas from the Gozo Citadel

: Let’s travel back to the main island of Malta to the Three Cities. Frank and I visited one of them – Birgu. The town, also known as Vittorioso, is where the Knights of St. John first settled (making it older than Valletta).

: The Inquisitor’s Palace is a notorious reminder of a bygone era (the Roman Inquisition). It was the Inquisitors’ mission to find and suppress heresy.

: In Birgu, we had a traditional Maltese meal.

: After the Great Siege, the Knights founded Valletta in 1566.

: The eight-point Crusade cross, often associated with the Knights of Malta, later became known as the Maltese Cross.

: The Sacra Infermeria, or the ‘Holy Infirmery,’ was considered state-of-the-art when it was built by the Order of the Knights of Malta in 1574. Each patient had a four-post bed with curtain for warmth and privacy and their own private toilet.

: Religion is a big part of Maltese culture. According to the Holy Bible, St. Paul was shipwrecked in Malta and converted its inhabitants to Christianity in 60 AD. St. Paul is the patron saint of Malta. (St. Paul’s Shipwreck Church)

: 98% of the Maltese population identify as Christians. (St. Paul’s Shipwreck Church)

: St. Paul’s Shipwreck Church

: The Knights of St. John founded what is now known as St. John’s Co-Cathedral. It was the church of the Order of Knights of St. John for over 200 years.

: One of its most striking features is the floor, which is made up of Knights’ tombstones.

: The floor is made up of more than 400 tombstones. Each is a unique design created in different color marble. They date from early 17th century to the 19th century.

: Although the Cathedral started out very plain, the Grand Masters and Knights donated artwork and money to enhance it. Knights were nobleman from the most important families of Europe charged to preserve and protect the Catholic faith.

: The Order was organized into eight nations, also called ‘langues’ (Italy, France, Auvergne, Provence, Aragon, Castille, Germany and England). Each nation has a unique chapel inside the Cathedral (except England, whose langue had been disbanded).

: The Cathedral is also home to Caravaggio’s famous painting, the Beheading of St. John the Baptist.

: Malta’s second of two cathedrals is St. Paul’s Pro Cathedral in Mdina. Although not as ornate as the Valletta Cathedral, it is stunning.

: The Cathedral is said to be built on the site of the villa belonging to Publius, the Roman governor of Malta, who welcomed St. Paul in AD 60.

: I think this is one of the most beautiful depictions of the Annunciation that I have ever seen.

: Mdina was the capital of Malta prior to Valletta.

: Mdina

: Mdina has only 300 inhabitants.

: View from the Mdina wall of the densely populated towns along the sea

: Outside of Mdina is the town of Rabat (rabat means suburb), where we visited St. Paul’s Grotto.

: According to legend, this is where St. Paul stayed for three months preaching Christianity to the Maltese population.

: Adjacent to the Grotto are tunnels which served another purpose in later years.

: The catacombs were used first by the Phoenicians, and later the Romans, as an underground cemetery until around the 4th century AD.

: When Malta was being bombed during World War II, the catacombs served as air raid shelters for the residents. Caves were hollowed out for that purpose.

: Both the Cathedral and St. Paul’s Church have adjacent museums featuring opulent collections of religious artwork and artifacts.

: This Church outside nearby Mosta has another historical tie to WWII.

: Aside from being one the third largest domed churches in the world, it was the scene of a miracle.

: During an air raid, a 500kg bomb fell through the dome, almost destroying the church. The miracle? It didn’t explode. All 300 people attending morning Mass left unharmed! (This isn’t the live shell, just a model.)

: Malta is much more than churches and walls. Marsaxlokk is a pretty little beach towns on Malta’s east coast.

: Known as luzzus, these traditional and distinctive Maltese fishing boats are brightly painted in primary colours.

: In keeping with traditions dating back to Phoenician times, the eye of Horus (an ancient Egyptian symbol of protection) is painted on the front bow to protect fishermen out at sea.

: The cosmopolitan city of Valletta

: Gorgeous Baroque buildings

: Beautiful green spaces (Upper Barakka Gardens)

: Views of the Mediterranean

: Valletta’s Triton Fountain

: Valletta’s Is-Suq tal-Belt, also known as the Covered Market, is a 19th-century market hall that has been converted into a gourmet restaurant food court and specialty grocer. It is notable for being the first building in Malta to be constructed mostly of iron.

: Valletta was named the 2018 European Capital of Culture.

: Valletta’s 2018 European Capital of Culture Celebration

: Valletta’s 2018 European Capital of Culture Celebration

: Valletta’s 2018 European Capital of Culture Celebration

: Four large city squares featured performances on the Opening Night celebration.

: Valletta’s 2018 European Capital of Culture Celebration

: Around the bays and up the coast from Valletta, you’ll find towns very popular with expats.

: Sliema

: Sliema

: Shopping and . . .

: restaurants are plentiful.

: There is no shortage of entertainment venues, especially in the Paceville area, which are plenty of entertainment areas, too. The Paceville, which is known for its casinos and nightlife.